Our first riding day begins with mist on the Danube. After a quick breakfast we walk from the hotel back to the train station bike shop to sort out (adjust and test) our bikes (thank you Florian!) We cycle back to our hotel along the river path, ringing our bells furiously as we pass through the hordes of tourists who debouch from the bowels of the “Viking” river boats moored along the quai, scattering them. These massive riverboats are ubiquitous along this stretch of the river, and we will see them in their dozens throughout the day, cruising towards Linz, Vienna, Budapest and perhaps beyond. That is not the life for us, who exult in the healthy cyclists’ life, and the camaraderie of the open road!
Back at the hotel, we attach our panniers to our bikes, and persuade a passing woman to take our starting selfie (above). And then we’re off, bumping along the cobbled street, crossing the old Luitpold Bridge to the Danube’s north bank, followed by a sharp right turn to head east and downstream. Below you will find a few highlights of the day, lavishly illustrated with photographs.
A picnic
Inspired by the sight of two other cyclists, whom we spot lounging on the riverbank on the other side of a small field (he: contemplating the river flowing endlessly towards the Black Sea; she: reading nearby in the shade) we decide to take our lunch break in a similar manner. It was a Good Decision, since it is easy to get caught up in the pedaling routine, when one should always be looking for an excuse to Lounge: a café; a shady riverbank. Particularly on a beautiful day such as today, for the sun has burned off the morning mist, and we have read worrying reports of possible rain during the next few days. “Lounge while the sun shines!” shall be our motto.
The cycle path is flat, smooth, and very popular, for we regularly encounter (and are passed by) other cyclists, many of whom are riding e-bikes. They hum along at quite a clip. The convention is to ring your bike bell when approaching from behind with an intent to pass. So, if you are more often hearing the bells of others than ringing your own bell, you are going slower than the average cyclist. If you use your own bell frequently, you are probably going faster than you need to (remember: “Lounge!”). And if you hear no bells at all, it is probably night.
Bicycle ferries
A highlight of these first couple of days are the small bicycle ferries which flit back and forth across the Danube, allowing you to cycle along either river bank, or to alternate banks if you so choose. We take one such ferry, about 2/3 of the way to our destination, the Au to Grafenau ferry, which takes us not across the river but through a scenic switchback, about 5 km in length, where there is no road along the north bank. The fare was €6.50 per person, which seemed like a fair fare. Our captain has his head swathed in a T-shirt against the sun, and plays a muted coronet as we cruise along. When we disembark, a Viking cruise ship plows past, the waves from its wake washing against the riverbank.
The best strudel in the region
In past bicycle trips, I (M) have aimed for one morning café break, and one in the afternoon (“Lounge!”). But we four are picky coffee / café aficionados, and there are not many suitable cafés along today’s route. In the end, though, we are delighted to have waited until mid-afternoon for our first café break, which we take at an attractive roadside café overlooking the river, at a table in the shade. We later learn that they make the best strudel in the region, which may explain the café’s popularity.
They are out of apple strudel when we stop, and we cannot wait for the next batch, currently baking, so we go with the plum strudel to accompany our coffees. So good that I now regret we did not purchase a slice or two to go. When you are a devoted pastry fan, life is full of such regrets.
Attempting a dangerous manœuvre
In order to offer to you, our devoted readers, an action picture showing all four of us in motion, we today made several attempts at a taking a mobile group selfie, a highly dangerous manœuvre that requires the photographer to ride with one hand on the handlebar, while the other holds an expensive iPhone aloft, as he then attempts to (1) use one fingertip to tap the necessary camera functions (photo rather than video or portrait mode; selfie camera as opposed to the main camera lens) and then to attempt to (2) frame both himself (left side of the frame) and three other cyclists (right side), cyclists who are meanwhile attempting to (1) remain in close formation behind the photographer and to his right, while (2) pedaling at the same speed as the photographer, yet NOT: (3) colliding with each other; (4) colliding with any oncoming cyclists; (5) colliding with the occasional oncoming car; or (6) pedaling off the cycle path entirely. We hope you appreciate the risks we regularly take for our subscribers!
Our destination
Today was probably our longest day of riding, and we had a slightly later start than we would have liked, due to the bicycles being delivered to Florian’s shop rather than to our hotel. So, while the weather was fantastic, and the bike path was close to ideal (flat, nicely paved etc), it was still nice to finally, after 60 km of riding, reach our destination, the Gasthof in der Exlau, where we could (and did!) shower, change, hand wash a garment or two, and enjoy a meal.
For tomorrow is another day, with (hopefully) further opportunities to Lounge.
Danube to Dalmatia 
The plum strudel provides the necessary corrective to what looks like prison fare for dinner. Remind me to tell you our walkers’ ferry experience. It all looks idyllic.
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I am hereby reminding you to tell me about your walkers’ ferry experience
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You’ll have to wait. It can only be told face to face.
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