The last part of our invasion of the Austro-Hungarian Empire has us exploring the Dalmatian coast of Croatia: a few nights in Split; a couple of nights on Korčula, one of the smaller islands off the Dalmatian coast; and a final few nights in Dubrovnik, where the forecast tells us to expect some rain. It’s just a taste, really, of the lands that were once known as Yugoslavia, since there are so many other fascinating, beautiful and historic sights to see further inland and along the coast. But you have to start somewhere when you’re getting to know new territory, and we’d decided to start with Split.
Getting from Ljubljana to Split proved to be somewhat tricky. We used the Rome2Rio app to investigate our options, and every alternative—air, train, bus—wanted to route us through Zagreb; and we had no particular interest in adding Zagreb to our itinerary this late in the game. Some of the suggested flights even had us changing planes in Germany, which just seemed silly. It eventually came down to bus v train, and in the end we chose the bus, since it got us into Split two hours earlier than the train. Either way, it was going to be (and was) a long travel day.
The highway from Zagreb to Split is state of the art, and smooth as silk. As it passes through the Dinaric Alps there are numerous road bridges and tunnels (one of the tunnels was almost 6km long; it seemed to go on forever) and you just keep cruising effortlessly along that road until you get to wherever it is you want to go. It proved to be a great chance to rest, and to read.
Our bus was scheduled to arrive in Split in early evening, and our gradual descent from the hills towards the coast coincided with dusk falling. We could see the Adriatic glinting in the distance, and the air began to feel warmer again.
The Split bus station is located at the edge of the city’s inner harbour, where the Croatian ferries berth. In theory you could step off your bus and directly onto a ferry, and within a few hours you could be sitting at a dockside restaurant on one of the smaller Dalmatian islands, dining on freshly grilled sea bream, with a glass of chilled white wine in your free hand. In theory.
In our case, we grabbed our bags from the belly of the bus and headed away from the harbour on foot, towards the East Gate of Split’s old city. It was a bit of a culture shock to go from dusk and darkness into what felt like a brightly lit labyrinth. Passing through the gate, we were within the walls of what was once Diocletian’s Palace, now one of Croatia’s biggest tourist draws, and as we made our way through the narrow streets in search of our room, we dodged tourists, and gawked, peering up at street names 20 feet above the ground, heading down side streets, shining our iPhone flashlights on door numbers and on doorbells. It seemed as if every other doorway in the heart of Split had been transformed into one or more apartments for rent to tourists.
Our room, once we located it, proved to be about 1/6th the size of our palatial digs at the Barbo Palace in Ljubljana. On the plus side: if I stretch, I can almost turn on the bathroom tap while still in bed. Small it may be, but it’s also very central; step out our front door, turn left, then right, and 50 meters later you’re standing in the Peristyle of Diocletian’s palace, looking up at Split Cathedral.
A walk to Marjan Park, and Telegrin Peak
Our first full day in Split began with coffee at Tinel, based on a recommendation from D&A, who had stayed in Split a few weeks earlier. While sipping and nibbling we started talking with Antonio, a friend of the young guy with the Dali moustache who runs the Tinel café. Antonio recommended the view from the top of Marjan Park, just outside the city, so after picking up some picnic supplies from Split’s Green Market, J&I set out.
Out and about in Split
Swimming at Ježinak Beach
There are lots of beaches within walking distance of Split’s old city. Our favourite was Ježinak Beach, about 25 minutes on foot from our room, at the base of Marjan Park. Almost deserted at this time of year, and so refreshing after our uphill walk to Telegrin Peak.
Exploring Split
A sampling of the sights in and around Split: the many restaurants and gelato stands; the shops filled with knick-knacks and linen; and of course you have to rub the bronze foot of Gregory of Nin for luck. But I’m so glad that we visited at the end of the tourist season, since according to the locals we talked with, the crowds during high season often fill the narrow streets.
Ribarnica, the Split fish market
Fish that were swimming in the Adriatic in the morning are grilled and on your plate by dinner. Bought and sold from Ribarnica, Split’s fish market, about three minutes from our door.
Exploring Diocletian’s Palace, and Split Cathedral
The palace Vestibule, with its blue eye centred overhead. On one side of the Peristyle is Split Cathedral, where Diocletian’s mausoleum is found; and underneath: the crypt. On the other side of the Peristyle is the entrance to the baptistry, originally a temple to Jupiter.
Etc
Three nights in Split was about right for Split itself, though far too few if you’re wanting to explore towns up or down the coast. Split has a reputation, probably well deserved, as a bit of a party town for well-heeled yachts-people, and a destination for package tourists escaping the north to spend a bit of time soaking up some sun. Even now, at end-of-season, the narrow streets are often blocked by groups of similarly-garbed visitors, all dutifully following their umbrella-wielding leader, and stopping on command to stare up at this historic landmark or that. A little of that can go a long way.
The next stage in our invasion of the Austro-Hungarian Empire? A morning ferry to the island of Hvar, then an evening ferry to the even smaller island of Korčula, where we’ll spend a couple of nights. Stay tuned.
To close our stay in Split: a kitten (since who doesn’t love a posing kitten?), and the obligatory piece of cake.
Danube to Dalmatia 
The planning that must have gone into all this! God bless your energy!
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